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Exploring the Ideal Chinese Masculinity for Brands
In brand marketing, women have traditionally been a highly valued consumer group. However, more in-depth discussion should be conducted regarding the male consumer base. The 2023 Singles' Day shopping festival marked a significant milestone, announcing for the first time that the purchasing power of men had surpassed that of pet dog owners, heralding the rise of the "he-economy."
With men's purchasing power on the rise, numerous brands are venturing into this untapped market. Through a series of studies this year, we aim to gradually reveal male consumers' genuine needs and behavioral motivations, thereby providing brands with more precise positioning andmarketing strategies.
Summary of this article:
-The exploration of contemporary "masculinity" will become a new
opportunity for brands.-Successful cases of localization of international brands, exploring various ideal types of
masculinity.-The binary model of "masculinity", exploring the essence of masculinity.
-The Transformation of "Masculinity" under Generational Changes.
01 ' Masculinity ' Leading to New Opportunities
The book "Masculinity" describes a relationship between masculinity and economic behavior: "Masculinity has influenced sectors from automobiles to the cosmetics industry, becoming an effective economic force." [1] Yet, it remains unclear when whether the perception of men has simplified to the term "straight guy."
Research conducted by Ylab indicates that as primary consumers shift towards the Gen Z demographic, the fluidity and variability of masculinity become more evident, posing challenges in defining modern Chinese masculinity. According to Douglas Holt and Douglas Cameron's cultural innovation theory, a new culture arises during the transition period of collective consciousness [2].
This period represents a prime opportunity for brands to develop cultural strategies, employ cultural tactics, and make significant brand advancements. Therefore, as the intrinsic motivations of male groups evolve, significant opportunities arise for brands. In this new era, understanding and grasping masculinity and seizing trend opportunities are crucial for brands to innovate and achieve sustainable growth.
02 International brands are exploringthe "Chinese Masculinity."
Case Study: L'Oréal ParisMen's - Exploring the Idealized Image of "Chinese Masculinity"
Historically, many international brands have exploredthe market of "Chinese Masculinity," with several notable successes.
This case study examines L'Oréal Paris's entry into China, which pioneered the
concept of the "modern urban man," thereby overcoming the growth
constraints within the men's skincare category. Through this analysis, we will
explore how the idealized image of "Masculinity" contributedto the brand's success.- Exploratory Phase (2006-2008)
During the exploratory phase, L'Oréal Paris focused onproduct functionality to tap into the Chinese male consumer market. Despite these efforts, the initial financial results were disappointing.
Notably, the concept of appearance in Chinese culturecarries a unique “shame culture" for men, distinct from Western attitudes. Theprevailing belief that "a woman's beauty is solely for herself" may cause skincare for men to be viewed as a threat to their gender identity.This has led to the stereotype that "using female skincare products diminishes my masculinity."
Consequently, skincare did not emerge as a necessityfor Chinese men. Marketing focused solely on men's skincare needs failed to stimulate consumer behavior.
"I use skincare products,therefore I am perceived as effeminate."
(Disclaimer: Image generated byAI, used for illustrative purposes only)
- Correction Strategy Phase(2009-2018)
Marketing focused solely on men's skincareneeds failed to stimulate consumer behaviour.
During the correction strategy phase, L'Oréal Paris reshaped its brand strategy to emphasize the new identity of Urban Masculinity instead of the functional needs of skincare.
At that time, the primary consumer base comprised individuals who born in the 1980s, known as the "strivers" within Chinese history of development. These consumers are characterized by their pursuit of excellence and a dominant, assertive demeanor, epitomizing the ideal of urban masculinity.
L'Oréal Paris thus crafted the image of the "modern urban man"marked by supreme confidence and control. This repositioning established L'Oréal Paris Men's skincare products as essential for self-expression among
Chinese urban males, severing the previous link between skincare and effeminacy while fostering a positive association with masculinity."I define my own style; skincare is my attitude."
(Disclaimer: Image generated byAI, used for illustrative purposes only)
Meanwhile, L'Oréal Paris targetedvarious age demographics and categorized the image of male customers, such as "pioneering youth," "confident mid-young," and "mature middle-aged." Product lines were color-coded with shades like sea blue, orange, and crimson to reflect the evolving masculinity.
L'Oréal Paris also enhanced its brand messaging withimages rooted in sports and e-sports, activities that embody male courage and confidence.
This brandingstrategy significantly boosted the market share of L'Oréal Paris Men's skincare
products, stimulating growth within the men's skincare category.- Brand Leadership Phase(2018 - the present)
From 2018 onwards, L'Oréal Paris has continued to lead the market by further refining its depiction of male image. The brand has focused on cultivating an image as a "pioneer of innovation" and diversified male expressions through the establishment of the "Fashion Stylist for Men."
In its communications, acknowledging men's preferencefor rationality and scientific evidence, L'Oréal Paris has emphasized popularizing category knowledge at a professional level.
At the 2023 Singles' Day shopping festival, L'OréalParis Men's emerged as the top-ranked men's skincare brand on Tmall.
" For Men's skincare, I amthe Top 1 Expert."
(Disclaimer: Image generated byAI, used for illustrative purposes only)03 Exploring the essence of masculinity.
The Binary Model of "Masculinity," -Internal and External Elements
Fundamentally, masculinity addresses the essentialquestion of "what constitutes a 'True Man'." Current discussions on masculinity identify two primary components within the Binary Model of
Masculinity:
1. Internal Virtue-Oriented Elements, which emphasizes character traits men shouldexhibit, such as bravery, confidence, responsibility, independence,rationality, resilience, and self-discipline.
2. External Achievement-Oriented Elements, which focuses on the acquisition of power,wealth, status, physique, and sexuality.
【The Binary Model of Masculinity】
This theoretical framework gives us more insight intoconstructing male-focused brands.1. "Creating 'Ideal Projection': By integrating both internal andexternal factors or emphasizing specific traits, brands can establish diverse types of Masculinity."
Male consumers are not a "one-size-fits-all"demographic. Various ideal types of masculinity can be evolved based on the different combinations of internal and external elements of masculinity.
Furthermore, it is possible to delve into a specific aspect of masculinity to shape a recognizable male image.Take Dior Sauvage men's fragrance as an example.Through its ambassador, Johnny Depp, it highlights the wild image of masculinity that is unafraid of danger, which is attractive to women as a "Wild Allure." Visual communication scenes often portray Western wilderness and primitiveness, imbuing the fragrance with the
"brave and wild" ideal masculine quality, profoundly connecting with men's intrinsic drives, aiming to become a symbol label certifying male gender identity.Ylab research found that male perfume has also madebreakthroughs in recent years, and the masculinity it exhibits is rich and diverse. To some extent, this also reflects the effectiveness of the strategy of projecting ideal types of masculinity on Chinese male consumers.
Perfume, is my expression.
(Disclaimer: Image generated byAI, used for illustrative purposes only)
2.Modernmasculinity tends to be defined by external achievements
In various social and cultural contexts, the definingelements of mainstream masculinity have evolved, leading to a succession of idealized masculinity.
Sociologist Michael Kimmel examined masculinity in the United States and notedthat prior to industrialization, the predominant male archetype was the "heroicartisan," emphasizing virtues such as diligence, sincerity, and independence, typically associated with labourers. By the mid-19th century, however, the dominant masculinity shifted towards a "self-shaping" archetype, with a strong emphasis on "marketability," characterized by the pursuit of wealth and capital achievements, which exemplified byfigures like American industrialists Andrew Carnegie and John D. Rockefeller[3].
Similarly, in China, as the country has moved towardsmarketization and modernization, masculinity has also shifted towards external expressions. Traditional Chinese cultural norms once emphasized stability, responsibility and conservatism as the main traits of masculinity. In contemporary times, however, the definition has shifted towards attributes such as being a "domineering CEO" or exuding "masculine hormones," focusing on external qualities like wealth, power, and sexuality.
3.The Fluidity of Masculinity Traits in Times ofSignificant Change
As globalization and localization intertwine,masculinity is influenced not only by traditional local cultures but also by
the modern "he culture."
On one hand, some aspects of masculinity in localculture may continue across generations due to the gradual resurgence of the Chinese cultural context.
On the otherhand, these may be challenged or overturned by newer generations. Moreover, the diversity of masculinity in "he culture" may incite changes within local culture, leading to variations.
Thus, it is essential to understand how brands can effectivelycapture the ideal masculinity across generations and cultures and identify the right context and timing for engagement.
What changes are currently affecting the idealparadigm of masculinity in today's Chinese market?
04 Changes in 'Masculinity' Under Generational Transitions
The Transformation from Outward to Inward
With the rise of the "he economy," the scopeof male consumer power has significantly expanded.
The "2023 Men's Care Industry Trend Insights:Tmall Men's Care White Paper" shows that men are increasingly focusing on
comprehensive care—including hair, face, grooming, and body care—and a balanced
lifestyle [4].
Chanmofang, a Douyin e-commerce industry market dataintelligence platform in China, indicates that in 2023, the sales of men's perfumes and balms surged, with annual sales exceeding 60 million yuan, marking
a year-on-year growth of up to 1151.31% [5].
According to the "2023 H1 Men's Clothing IndustrySocial Media E-commerce Research Insights," the top three categories of
men's clothing—T-shirts, casual pants, and jackets—have all seen significant
year-on-year growth of over 60% [6].We often assume that male consumers prioritize functional and price-related factors, which are viewed as more rational. However, Ylab's generational research and observations of male consumers reveal that factors such as age and occupation significantly influence their emphasis on “emotional elements”. This highlights the variation in needs across different generations of men, underscoring the importance ofavoiding generalizations.
Upon further analysis, we recognize that the 'ideal masculinity'is also evolving within the male demographic. Although contemporary consumer society generally promotes more outwardly expressive masculine traits, there is a notable 'counter-current' in masculinity that values internal qualities.
(The Onion Model -Intrinsic Identity Drives Changes in Extrinsic Needs)
Since the mid-late 1990s, men who have grown up inChina's new era have increasingly valued internal qualities such as emotions and intelligence. This trend reflects a resurgence of the emotional andintellectual aspects that are deeply rooted in Chinese cultural definitionsof masculinity.
Case Study 1:
Artistic style men'sclothing, reviving the traditional scholar-like masculinity.
There has been a noticeable shift from the historicalnarrative of "working hard in silence." Contemporary middle-class men
often showcase their cultural tastes and personal thoughts more openly. They also prioritize pleasure and satisfaction in their daily lives, viewing these experiences as essential aspects of consumption.
A notable success is the mid-to-high-end men'sclothing brand, Sketch CROQUIS, under the Jiangnan Cloth label. This brand
focuses on simple art and personalized styles, capturing the shift in masculinity externally and internally within the fashion domain.
With "Humor and Reflection" as its coreconcept, Sketch CROQUIS aims to express local middle-class young men's personalities and leisure experiences.
In its marketing strategy, the brand has effectivelycaptured the ideal masculinity of relaxation, restraint, and artisticrefinement, values deeply cherished by creative middle-class men. This isachieved by enlisting notable figures such as folk musician Chen Hongyu and comedian Li Dan as brand ambassadors, who embody the brand's values of "elegance, playfulness, contemporariness, and texture."
In terms of design, Sketch CROQUIS emphasizes quality and practicality. The sophisticated color combinations and artistic cuts enhance the brand's "textured fashion," appealing to men's preferences for intuitive, minimalist clothing while reviving the traditional Chinese masculinity of "scholarly demeanor" through unique, relaxed, and artistic creations.
"My inner self is not bound by externalfactors."
(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used forillustrative purposes only)
Case Study 2
Lululemon Men's - Interpreting theMasculinity of the "New Generation Elite"
Lululemon initially targeted urban elitewomen and achieved significant success before expanding into the market of male
consumers.Lululemon initially targeted urban elite women and by 2017, the brand had honed its strategy for male consumers, and by
2021, the growth rate of its men's segment surpassed that of its women's [7].
Transitioning from female to maleconsumer groups, Lululemon captured the confident and composed essencenaturally exhibited by the new middle-class men, crafting the image of a “new generation elite” man—powerful, professionally driven, and fully present in the moment.
In its branding efforts, Lululemon continued to recruit top athletes and personalities from various fields as brand ambassadors, focusing on "interest-based socialization"appealing to new middle-class men. This includes figures like NBA player Jordan Clarkson and China's first F1 driver Zhou Guanyu, integrating Lululemon's product features with the personal demeanor of these men, allowing the brand to transcend traditional gender marketing and establish itself among the "middle-class sports trio" for the new generation elite.
"Abovestrength, I choose to enjoy the present moment."
(Disclaimer:Image generated by AI, used for illustrative purposes only)
The conventional success metrics of "house, car,and money" no longer resonate strongly with the new generation of men. Raised in relatively affluent conditions, this new generation exhibits ashift towards internalizing masculinity, a trend that underscores a broadercultural return to valuing internal qualities in Chinese society. We will continue to monitor and report on these evolving trends and underlying motives.
Reference:
ChanMo Fang. Men's Beauty and Pet Track Sales Surge! Where Are the New Opportunities in Douyin E-commerce in 2024.
DuoZhun and Tmall. 2023 Men's Grooming Industry Trends Insight: Tmall Men's Grooming White Paper. 2023.
GuoJi Hang Yan. 2023 H1 Men's Clothing Industry Social Media E-commerce Research
Insights. 2023.Holt,Douglas B. How Brands Become Icons: The Principles of Cultural Branding.Harvard Business Press, 2004.
Kimmel,Michael. Manhood in America. Oxford University Press, 2017.
ShouChuang Securities. Opportunities in the Chinese Women's Sports Market through
the Growth Path of Lululemon. 2022.Sui Hongsheng. Masculinities,Frontier ResearchLibrary of Core Topics in Foreign Language Disciplines. Foreign LanguageTeaching and Research Press, 2020.
Acknowledgementto the Team:
YuhongLi, Bernice Tang, Melody Jin, Grace Yu, Lynette Duan, Cynthia Hu, Shera Liu,
Jiayi Rong, Carol Gu, Chole Jiang, Nancy Yang, Shirley Wang, Erika Huang,
Jessie Chen, Sylvan Wang- Exploratory Phase (2006-2008)
Ylab Limited
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